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3D Coat's Brushes


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#41 dirtrobot

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 07:31 AM

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NB: Size of brush is everything in 3DCoat and my advice to anyone new in 3DCoat is to observe each tools behavior at various sizes - you may be pleasantly surprised at the range of effects simply by changing your brush size to the form. My very important point is do not view this behavior as erratic - that would be misleading. With practice you will begin to utilize this to your advantage as well as understand and predict how brush size changes the focus of it's effect on the clay.

As I also said earlier one of the absolute delights in 3DCoat are the smooth modes of the brushes that offer such a fantastic and sophisticated range of polishing options .By habit a more regular smoothing through needs to be adopted after some stroke modes than may be the case in ZBrush.

NB: 3DCoat also requires a different physical rhythm than ZBrush - which allows for faster jerkier moves as well as cross hatch builds where as 3DCoat prefers a direction of travel stroke to the angle of the form.

My greatest irritation with 3DCoat is therefore not brush response once set but - having to reset them each time I start - be that e-panel or spacing.


3DC literally prevents me from sketching as I can in zbrush. What happens is one/some/all of the following results: the speed of the stroke is too much for the software, the brush stutters randomly, leaving those awful circular artifacts, the results are COMPLETELY surprising because I changed the brush size and/or height slightly (and then I have to undo), or 3DC won't 'let go' of the stroke and it hangs and suddenly a huge streak of something awful appears.

I will admit LC is more manageable for me, but even then I still can't get consistent results and I lose my artistic excitement quickly.

#42 digman

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 10:22 AM

A different version of Franky with the start of a helmet. I'm posting unfinished work as I test the brushes...
The helmet was started using the copy brush in voxel mode and then adjusted some while still in voxel mode. I then switched to surface mode.

I would say that one has to play around with the brushes other than default. I have already done this over a few months.

If we could save a brush pack (voxel and surface mode/LC) that would really help the new users as they could just download them because as Candy-floss-kid pointed out there are a number of brush settings that a newer user would have to learn over time.

Maybe the voxel brushes could have settings that you can change similar to the general brush in the LC brushes. We all go about sculpting in
our own way so that would be ideal. When, Raul gets back to working on the LC brushes maybe he will be able increase our range of brush settings for voxel brushes too.

Solving the faster sculpting speed without the dotting effect plus reducing the angular effect on some curve brush strokes would have a large impact on brush use too.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Franky4.jpg
  • Franky Skin.jpg


#43 Tony Nemo

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 05:20 PM

Vis-a-vis Digman's character, are the protrusions the result of the same evolutionary origin as the peacocks tail? Nice work, BTW.
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#44 digman

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 06:50 PM

I was testing the CreaseClay for skin in my recent posting. I would say that the pinch brush and CreaseClay are two brushes that do work well. I change the falloff to suit the needs of the sculpt. The CreaseClay and Pinch brush (remove stretching enabled) are a good team for getting clean sharp edges. I also use the pinch brush in a circular pattern for polishing. It pulls out lumps... I will use a combination of smooth and pinch brush for polishing. InflateClay at default works very well for stamping mask patterns to the sculpt.

Not happy with the neck skin so will reworked it plus I added some more eye detail. I am going at this piecemeal just to test the brushes and will change stuff at times.
Next is to work on the helmet.
When you become a solider in this race you saw off yours horns as a sign of sacrifice and honor. The enemy would grab them to pull you down and then finish you off. :spiteful:

I hope some others grab the Frankenstein base model supplied by John in this thread. I am curious about your experiences of using the brushes.

Black spots appear sometimes on the top section of the helmet when brushing. That is a bug that is not squashed yet...

Attached Thumbnails

  • Franky5.jpg


#45 Tony Nemo

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 09:25 PM

Embossed flesh to be the next evolution of tatooing. Thanks for the "combination of smooth and pinch brush for polishing" tip.
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#46 Polygoon

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 01:00 AM

Yes, I find it a good idea to write down various brush settings on a note pad. Makes it a lot easier if you are switching back and forth a lot from tool to tool, room to room etc. Also a good idea if you are shifting components around (can be handy for getting symmetry exact) to write down the original co-ordinates down before I move them. Then I can just put back in the original co-ordinate to get it back to exactly the right position.

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#47 digman

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 11:30 PM

Done testing brushes for now.
I spent about 10 hours testing as I worked piece mean on this sculpt with no set ideas.
I realized I will have to sit down and type something that is constructive for brush improvements. Shooting from the hip will not work in this case.
Anyway here is the test sculpt as far as I going to take it...
5.5 million polygons was the final count.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Soldier2.jpg





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